A unit of measurement of the total flow of light which is emitted continually from a source. One lumen is equal to the flow of light which is emitted from a very small wax candle. The common 40 Watt incandescent bulb emits some 400 lm (lumen). So the efficiency of that bulb is 400lm/40Watt= 10 lm/watt.
LUX
= lm/m2, the intensity of light which falls on a surface.
Colour Temperature
- measured in degrees Kelvin, the color of a light's output in relationship to the degree of heat applied to produce the specified colour of light. Daylight is measured around 5000 degrees kelvin
If we direct all light from our 40 Watt lamp towards a floor area of 1 square meter the intensity of light on that area will be 400 lux, (400 lumen distributed over 1 square meter, 400/1 lm/m2 = 400 lux,) which is a little better than moonlight, but far away from the sunlight intensities we need for growing plants.
The sun gives some 50 000 lm/m2= 50 000 lux at the earth surface on a clear summerday. See the table below.
The 40 Watt incandescent lamp is not only too weak for growing plants, it also has too little blue in its spectrum and is far too inefficient. Fluoroscent tubes and HPS and MH lamps are the better choices.
Cannabis needs 24 hours of strong light for the first 4-6 weeks of vegetative growth. Then it needs 2 months of 12/12 hours of strong light and very dark, to flower and ripen. If they get less than 30000 lux they will still grow vegetatively but slower. And they will flower less, if at all.
Light Requirements of "High Energy" Plants
1000 - 5000 lux
Min. necessary for life
10000 - 15000 lux
Min. necessary for consistent but sparse growth
20000 - 25000 lux
Min. necessary for robust growth
25000 - 30000 lux
Max. Efficiency for Sub Tropical varieties
25000 - 50000 lux
Max. Efficiency for Equatorial varieties
Plants need 25000-50000 lux too grow fast.
90000 lux Max. Sunlight Intensity on Earth's surface This is too much light, it is not good for the plant.
Plants subject to intensities at this level or greater are at risk of "solarization," whereby photosynthesis is retarded. This can happen at noon on a clear Tropical summer day, especially at high altitudes.
More advanced theory: Scientific, but has many answers about how and why.
Air Temperatures between 23C (70F) and 32C (90F) are ideal for growth; beyond 35C (95F) can adversely affect plants, retarding photosynthesis, and, in extreme cases, can cause leaf burn if a radiant heat source is nearby.
Calculating with lumen, lux and efficiency:
The cheapest and easiest solution to the beginner is to use fluoroscent tubes. The usual ones are 120 cm (48") long, and give at best 4000 lumen.
*****Ed Note: If you care to get a light meter and measure the light from various distances to your flouros, you'll see immediately that you will want to keep the lights as close to the top of your plants as possible. *****
Your grow room must have at least these dimensions: 140 cm high (these plants get big, 180 cm is better, 120 cm long (to accomodate for the tubes), and wide enough, let's say 60cm (2 feet). The easiest is to build an extra wall, made of silver tarpaulin or wood. This wall is placed 60 cm from a real wall, to create a space of say 200*260*60cm for use as a greenhouse or rather two. Build the wall and divide the space up into two small rooms. Make some type of opening, so you can take care of your plants later. Put in ventilation and cover all inside surfaces with al-foil using a stapler. We want the light to bounce around in there until it finds a green leaf to do its work in. As much light as possible is needed for the growth of the plants. The ventilation consists of a 12Volt fan which pushes the warm air from the green house through a plastic tube which ends outside the house to let the warm moist and odors out. Instead of a fake wall you can disguise the green house as a very big bass speaker, stereo wall, tv-stand, cupboard or whatever.
Buy the fluoros in ready-made units or do it yourself like this:
Buy the bare necessities to put up fluoros, that is reactors, lighters, tube holders, lighter holders, wire.7mm, capacitors and connectors.
Most of these devices have pushcontacts, that means you don't have to solder or screw much, just strip off the insulation from the cable and push it in.
Put up as many tubes as possible in the ceiling of the green house. You might be able to get 6 tubes into every green house half. Every green house has a floor area of 0.60m*1.30m=0.78m2 With 6*4000 lumen you get 24000lumen. Divide by 24000lm with 0.78m2to get 31000 lux, which is good enough.
Use hanging mounts for the tubes, they are cheapest and easiest to use. They also make it easier to pack the tubes densely in the cieling or hanging at different levels, hanging only in the thin electric cables. If you manage to get 10 tubes into the top of the green house you get 40000lm/0.78m2= 51300 lux in there.
As another example, let's take one of the most popular hps grow bulbs:
Lumen
Watt
lm/watt
Kelvin
Hours
Manufacturer, Name
53,000
430
123.3
2000
16k
Philips, SON T AGRO
The Son-T-Agro gives out 53000 lumen. If we use a reflector to direct all of that light towards a floor area of 2 m2 we get a light intensity on that area of 53000 lumen/2 m2, which is 26500 lumen/m2(=lux)
We can see in table 3 above that it fits in: "25000 - 30000 lux =Max. Efficiency for Sub Tropical varieties".
We add some daylight fluoros, 6 fluoros a 4000 lumen=24000 lumen. Divide by floor area 2 m2 to get =12000lumen/m2=12000lux
Together the hps and the fluoros give 26500+12000=38500lux in the 2 m2big grow room. see table 3: 25000 - 50000 lux Max. Efficiency for Equatorial varieties.
This combination will draw 430Watt+6*40Watt+100Watt in the ballast units, total =530+240=770Watt of electricity.
Our total efficiency is 53 000 + 24 000 lm divided with 770 Watt, which is 77 000 lumen /770 Watt = 100 lm/Watt
At 38500 lux we have an illumination which is optimal for growth,
Illumination Chart
Light Intensity (lux) as a Function of Area Illuminated (m2)
Light Source
lumens
1.0 m2
1.5 m2
2.0 m2
2.5 m2
3.0 m2
3.5 m2
4.0 m2
1000W HPS
140000
--
--
70000
56000
46700
40000
35000
600W HPS
90000
--
60000
45000
36000
30000
25700
22500
400W HPS
50000
50000
33300
25000
20000
--
--
--
250W HPS
29000
29000
19300
--
--
--
--
--
1000W MH
115000
--
--
57500
46000
38300
32900
28800
400W MH
40000
40000
26700
20000
--
--
--
--
For example, from this chart we can see that a 600W HPS used to illuminate an area of 2.5 m2 will result in a lighting intensity of 36000 lux. Note that this presumes that a reflector is being used so that all the light is being directed towards this 2.5 m2 area.
I've been studing this method of lighting i'm going to give it a try and will let every body know how this works. Grow Bigger and Better,Saving 30-50% on your energy cost! Grow Bigger and Better,Saving 30-50% on your energy cost!
By Joe Pietri
The biggest innovator in the history of cannabis in my generation is Reinhard Delp. Not only did he invent and holder of the patent for ice water extraction, he has been building flower forcers since 1992. His new solar powered Sun-gate is the leader of the industry. He was the first to feminize seeds and sell them in Europe in the late 90’s. His process was done naturally, without the use of any chemicals.
No one is more copied but seldom matched than Mr. Delp, who to me is the top grower of our generation.
The first time he impressed me he showed me 2 plants, planted next to one another, 1 completely covered in powdery mildew, the other completely clean and beautiful. He was developing mildew and mold resistant genetics.
In the late 90’s Reinhard brought back the gas lantern routine that you find in any college grade horticulture book, and applied it to cannabis. Cannabis needs only 13 hours to stay in growth state. The 18-6 lighting in growth pattern, actually stress your plants, that never get that much light in one-day outdoors. Cannabis is an outdoor plant. Growing indoors you should copy how it grows outdoors.
No Cannabis growing in Afghanistan gets 18 hours of light in growth pattern. Most strains today have some part Indica in their genetic pool. Even equatorial strains don’t get 18 hours of sun a day.
12-1 lighting is as follows: 12 hours lights on, 5.5 lights off, 1-hour lights on, 5.5 lights off, and repeat schedule. The 1 hour on in between off period fools the plants that stay in growth state!
Your immediate savings is 5 hours in energy costs daily, as well as your bulbs and equipment lasting longer. But how do the plants react to this lighting schedule?
You see immediate growth response from your plants, they are happy from the added rest time. By day 14 the plants tripled in size. The plants are bushy with twice as many bud sites without topping or bending, In fact, when you top and stretch your plants out, you get many more bud sites than you would have had under 18-6 using same procedure of topping and stretching plant, your growing bigger and better and faster.
So you're saving 5 hours daily in energy costs, as well as your accelerated growth pattern which also saves you time and energy and equipment use.
In the growth cycle, never use 12-12, start your flowering period at 11 hours on 13 hours off. When your are growing outdoors each day you get less and less sun light, you should copy the way the sun acts naturally in your indoor grow. So first 2 weeks of flower you go 11 on 13 off, the next 2 weeks you go down to 10.5 on 13.5 off, next 2 weeks 10 on 14 off, next two weeks 9.5 on 14.5 off and the last weeks of flower you should be at 9 hours on and 15 hours off. You’ll get bigger and better buds by copying the way the sun light works on cannabis outdoors.
Cannabis is an outdoor plant and you should copy the way it grows outdoors indoors. The only thing that 18-6, and then 12-12 do is make the energy companies rich as well as the people who sell lights and equipment, the more you use the more you spend. 12-1 is a more natural way to grow indoors and you well have the best results you have ever had and save as much as 50% in energy costs.
Tucson Bob I have a Question for ya...I am useing 600watt HPS bulbs in fixtures that can have glass installed.. at this time I am not air cooling the fixtures with ducting so I have removed all the glass.. the question is can I install the glass without over heating or damageing the bulbs? or should I only install the glass if I am air cooling
it doesn't make much differance but without the glass the heat excapes easier so just make sure your not to close to your plants with the glass more of the heat radiates up. in cooling with duting and fan drws the heat straight out and will increase bulb life a little but not much. in not using duct the glass will become a dust trap. hope this helps
200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is extremely harmful to plants because it is highly toxic.
280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade.
315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to plant growth.
380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.
>>>400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)
>>>Photosynthesis peaks at 430nm, no red (575nm+) is needed. >>>Chlorophyll a and b are created between 400nm(UV/blue) and 550nm(green/white).
520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.
610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)
>>>Chlorophyll best absorbs light from the 680nm to 700nm range. 720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by chlorophyll here. Flowering and germination is influenced. At the high end of the band is infrared, which is heat.
Quick question on running autos. Currently I am in flower on my photo's... so i am thinking about purchasing a t-5 setup to run three auto seedlings under.. I plan on running both autos and photos at the same time so i don't go medless in the off time. In the long run i could use the t5 for veg and seedlings.. My question is if i buy a four bulb set-up would it be beneficial to run mixed spectrum for the autos say three 6500k and one 3000k.? Or maybe half and half.. i have been reading up on other forums but it's never clear on if anybody runs there t5's this way for autos.. all the more expensive hid. bulbs are marketed saying they put out more enhanced spectrum either blue or red depending on the bulb.. the most expensive seem to be the dual arc bulbs that have both... Any thoughts on running mixed spectrum for autos?
__________________
The Name I have given is an online alias.. The real me is on the Card! You have one you will see.. AZ prop. 203<-- Patient legal and compliant. Since March 2, 2012. and never trying not to be.
Cool thanks for the quick response yeah I figured it would. Just wanted to make sure before I purchased anything.. Thanks Just trying to get the most out of my HBD. I trust your knowledge.. the decreased light cycle also seem like something worth looking into, very interesting stuff. Mr. delp might be a new role model for me.. Please keep us posted on your results.. !
__________________
The Name I have given is an online alias.. The real me is on the Card! You have one you will see.. AZ prop. 203<-- Patient legal and compliant. Since March 2, 2012. and never trying not to be.
"12-1 lighting is as follows: 12 hours lights on, 5.5 lights off, 1-hour lights on, 5.5 lights off, and repeat schedule. The 1 hour on in between off period fools the plants that stay in growth state!
Your immediate savings is 5 hours in energy costs daily, as well as your bulbs and equipment lasting longer. But how do the plants react to this lighting schedule?
You see immediate growth response from your plants, they are happy from the added rest time. By day 14 the plants tripled in size. The plants are bushy with twice as many bud sites without topping or bending, In fact, when you top and stretch your plants out, you get many more bud sites than you would have had under 18-6 using same procedure of topping and stretching plant, your growing bigger and better and faster."
I've read elsewhere one guy tried all 3 vegetative methods (24-0, 18-6, 12-1) and reported that with the (24-0) method he got the fastest growth. Others would argue that (18-6) is better because when the lights are off it allows the plant to build up flowering hormones I believe. So it sounds like if you were keeping a mother then (24-0) would be the best method. I'm curious what types of results people have gotten by using (12-1 & 18-6) with plants they flowered.
-- Edited by azbluntman on Wednesday 31st of October 2012 01:03:52 PM
__________________
"Two of my favorite things are sitting on my front porch smoking a pipe of sweet hemp, and playing my Hohner harmonica." - Abraham Lincoln (from a letter written by Lincoln during his presidency to the head of the Hohner Harmonica Company in Germany)
really i don't think you can do 18-6 or 24-0 for flowering, you have to have at least 12-12 minimum for the plant to think that winter is coming, i'm growing my plants on 24-0 and it hasn't given me any problems whatsoever, it does speed up the growing process cuz it keeps the plant in full veg mode all the time until you are ready to flower it. I don't know if i would do it with a hps, i'm running t5s so those are penny's to use on 24-0, if you are using hps/mh go with an 18-6 or 20-4 give it just a little time to rest and you save a little money on your bill too
I have heard of people doing the 12-1 method but IMO, whatever cost reduction you are seeking with it is negligible and you probably have the wrong hobby if you are trying to save those few dollars by doing that. Also, I remember reading about someone doing that staggered light cycle and they had 10+ different strains in veg and one of them started to flower.
With all of that said, you cannot go wrong with 18-6 in veg. I've done 24-0, I have seen other grows at 24-0 and I have not seen a considerable difference that justifies 24-0 in veg.
As for flowering, a few interesting notes.... plants will flower with a 13/11 cycle and there's a lot of anecdotal evidence to support that a 13/11 cycle produces bigger buds. Plants flower outdoors with 14.5/9.5.... then as the fall hits, it finishes up in a 13/11 cycle. 13/11 is something I will be looking to try for my next run.
"really i don't think you can do 18-6 or 24-0 for flowering"
My question was aimed at different vegging light cycles. (24-0, 18-6, 12-1 [12-5.5-1-5.5])
I think it would be pretty cool to save some electricity if the outcomes are the same. Think about it if the (12-1) cycle is only 13hrs a day. You would be cutting your electricity consumption by just under half compared to the (24-0) light cycle. The problem with this idea is there are not enough sources that vouge for the (12-1) method. I'm thinking most likely because its not as effective ???? Has anyone found any different to support the (12-1) method ???
Thanks for your input. Just trying to understand it all a little better.
-- Edited by azbluntman on Thursday 1st of November 2012 01:28:59 PM
__________________
"Two of my favorite things are sitting on my front porch smoking a pipe of sweet hemp, and playing my Hohner harmonica." - Abraham Lincoln (from a letter written by Lincoln during his presidency to the head of the Hohner Harmonica Company in Germany)