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Lighting Types and Intensities

Lumen
A unit of measurement of the total flow of light which is emitted continually from a source. One lumen is equal to the flow of light which is emitted from a very small wax candle.
The common 40 Watt incandescent bulb emits some 400 lm (lumen). So the efficiency of that bulb is 400lm/40Watt= 10 lm/watt.
LUX
= lm/m2, the intensity of light which falls on a surface.
Colour Temperature
- measured in degrees Kelvin, the color of a light's output in relationship to the degree of heat applied to produce the specified colour of light. Daylight is measured around 5000 degrees kelvin

If we direct all light from our 40 Watt lamp towards a floor area of 1 square meter the intensity of light on that area will be 400 lux, (400 lumen distributed over 1 square meter, 400/1 lm/m2 = 400 lux,) which is a little better than moonlight, but far away from the sunlight intensities we need for growing plants.

The sun gives some 50 000 lm/m2= 50 000 lux at the earth surface on a clear summerday. See the table below.

The 40 Watt incandescent lamp is not only too weak for growing plants, it also has too little blue in its spectrum and is far too inefficient. Fluoroscent tubes and HPS and MH lamps are the better choices.

Cannabis needs 24 hours of strong light for the first 4-6 weeks of vegetative growth. Then it needs 2 months of 12/12 hours of strong light and very dark, to flower and ripen. If they get less than 30000 lux they will still grow vegetatively but slower. And they will flower less, if at all.

 

Light Requirements of "High Energy" Plants
1000 - 5000 luxMin. necessary for life
10000 - 15000 luxMin. necessary for consistent but sparse growth
20000 - 25000 luxMin. necessary for robust growth
 25000 - 30000 luxMax. Efficiency for Sub Tropical varieties25000 - 50000 luxMax. Efficiency for Equatorial varieties

Plants need 25000-50000 lux too grow fast.

90000 lux Max. Sunlight Intensity on Earth's surface This is too much light, it is not good for the plant.

Plants subject to intensities at this level or greater are at risk of "solarization," whereby photosynthesis is retarded. This can happen at noon on a clear Tropical summer day, especially at high altitudes.

140000 lux Sunlight above atmosphere (Solar Constant)


More advanced theory: Scientific, but has many answers about how and why.

 

Air Temperatures between 23C (70F) and 32C (90F) are ideal for growth; beyond 35C (95F) can adversely affect plants, retarding photosynthesis, and, in extreme cases, can cause leaf burn if a radiant heat source is nearby.

Calculating with lumen, lux and efficiency:

The cheapest and easiest solution to the beginner is to use fluoroscent tubes. The usual ones are 120 cm (48") long, and give at best 4000 lumen.

*****Ed Note: If you care to get a light meter and measure the light from various distances to your flouros, you'll see immediately that you will want to keep the lights as close to the top of your plants as possible. *****

Your grow room must have at least these dimensions: 140 cm high (these plants get big, 180 cm is better, 120 cm long (to accomodate for the tubes), and wide enough, let's say 60cm (2 feet). The easiest is to build an extra wall, made of silver tarpaulin or wood. This wall is placed 60 cm from a real wall, to create a space of say 200*260*60cm for use as a greenhouse or rather two. Build the wall and divide the space up into two small rooms. Make some type of opening, so you can take care of your plants later. Put in ventilation and cover all inside surfaces with al-foil using a stapler. We want the light to bounce around in there until it finds a green leaf to do its work in. As much light as possible is needed for the growth of the plants. The ventilation consists of a 12Volt fan which pushes the warm air from the green house through a plastic tube which ends outside the house to let the warm moist and odors out. Instead of a fake wall you can disguise the green house as a very big bass speaker, stereo wall, tv-stand, cupboard or whatever.

Buy the fluoros in ready-made units or do it yourself like this:

Buy the bare necessities to put up fluoros, that is reactors, lighters, tube holders, lighter holders, wire.7mm, capacitors and connectors.

Most of these devices have pushcontacts, that means you don't have to solder or screw much, just strip off the insulation from the cable and push it in.

Put up as many tubes as possible in the ceiling of the green house. You might be able to get 6 tubes into every green house half. Every green house has a floor area of 0.60m*1.30m=0.78m2 With 6*4000 lumen you get 24000lumen. Divide by 24000lm with 0.78m2to get 31000 lux, which is good enough.

Use hanging mounts for the tubes, they are cheapest and easiest to use. They also make it easier to pack the tubes densely in the cieling or hanging at different levels, hanging only in the thin electric cables. If you manage to get 10 tubes into the top of the green house you get 40000lm/0.78m2= 51300 lux in there.

As another example, let's take one of the most popular hps grow bulbs:

 

LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
53,000430123.3200016kPhilips, SON T AGRO

The Son-T-Agro gives out 53000 lumen. If we use a reflector to direct all of that light towards a floor area of 2 m2 we get a light intensity on that area of 53000 lumen/2 m2, which is 26500 lumen/m2(=lux)

We can see in table 3 above that it fits in: "25000 - 30000 lux =Max. Efficiency for Sub Tropical varieties".

We add some daylight fluoros, 6 fluoros a 4000 lumen=24000 lumen. Divide by floor area 2 m2 to get =12000lumen/m2=12000lux

Together the hps and the fluoros give 26500+12000=38500lux in the 2 m2big grow room. see table 3: 25000 - 50000 lux Max. Efficiency for Equatorial varieties.

This combination will draw 430Watt+6*40Watt+100Watt in the ballast units, total =530+240=770Watt of electricity.

Our total efficiency is 53 000 + 24 000 lm divided with 770 Watt, which is 77 000 lumen /770 Watt = 100 lm/Watt

At 38500 lux we have an illumination which is optimal for growth,

Illumination Chart

Light Intensity (lux) as a Function of Area Illuminated (m2)
Light Sourcelumens1.0 m21.5 m22.0 m22.5 m23.0 m23.5 m24.0 m2
1000W HPS140000----7000056000467004000035000
600W HPS90000--600004500036000300002570022500
400W HPS5000050000333002500020000------
250W HPS290002900019300----------
 
1000W MH115000----5750046000383003290028800
400W MH40000400002670020000--------

For example, from this chart we can see that a 600W HPS used to illuminate an area of 2.5 m2 will result in a lighting intensity of 36000 lux. Note that this presumes that a reflector is being used so that all the light is being directed towards this 2.5 m2 area.


 

LIGHT BULB PRODUCT LIST

HPS Conversion
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
40,500360112.5190024kPhilips C150S63/RETROLUX
23,000215106.9190024kPhilips C215S65/RETROLUX
15,000150100190024kPhilips C260S64/RETROLUX

 

High Presssure Sodium (HPS) bulbs
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
1400001000140.0210024000Philips C1000S52 Ceramalux
1300001000130.0210024000Sylvania LU1000 Lumalux
130000940138.3210024000IwasakiEyeSunluxUltraAceMHcnv)
90000600150.0210024000Philips C600S106 Ceramalux
84000600140.0210018000Sylvania LU600 Planta
53000430123.3210016000Philips Son T Agro 430W
51500430119.8210018000Sylvania LU430 Planta
50000400125.0210024000Philips C400S51 Ceramalux
50000400125.0210024000Sylvania LU400 Lumalux
47500360131.9210024000Philips C360S51/EW Ceramalux
45000360125.0210024000IwasakiEyeSunluxUltraAceMHcnv)
29000250116.0210024000Sylvania LU250 Lumalux
28500250114.0210024000Philips C250S50 Ceramalux
27500225122.2210024000Philips C225S50/EW Ceramalux
22000200110.0<210024000Sylvania LU200 Lumalux
16000150106.7<210024000Sylvania LU150 Lumalux
63007090.0<210024000Sylvania LU70 Lumalux

 

MasterColor (MH)
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
62007088.630007500Philips CDM70/U/M
62007088.630007500Philips CDM70/C/U/M
950010095300010kPhilips CDM100/V/M
920010092300010kPhilips CDM100/C/V/M

 

Metal Halide (MH) bulbs
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
1250001000125.0420012000Iwasaki MH BSX/BU 1000
1150001000115.0400012000Sylvania MS1000/BU SupMetalarc
1150001000115.0340012000Sylvania MS1000/C/BUSupMetalarc
1110001000125.0370010000Philips MH1000/U/BT37
40000400100.0430020000Philips MS400/HOR
40000400100.0500020000Philips 5K High Output Metal Halide
3900040097.5420020000Sylvania MS400/HOR SupMetalarc
3800040095.0420020000Iwasaki MH 400 Eye Sunlux
3800040095.0380020000SylvaniaMS400/C/HOR SupMetalarc
3450040086.3320020000Sylvania MS400/3K/HOR Super

 

Metalarc
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
2300025092.0430010000Philips MS250/HOR
2300025092.0420010000Sylvania MS250/HOR SupMetalarc
2200025088.0380010000Sylvania MS250/C/HORSuMetalarc
1800025072.0320010000Sylvania MS250/3K/HOR Super

 

Metalarc
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
1500017585.7430010000Philips MS175/HOR
1500017585.742007500Sylvania MS175/HOR SupMetalarc
1500017585.738007500Sylvania MS175/C/HORSMetalarc
1500017574.332007500Sylvania MS175/3K/HOR Super

 

Metalarc
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
930010093.042007500Philips 4K Master Color ED-17
850010085.0320010000Philips MS100/BU/BD/M/3K
780010078.0430010000Philips MH100/U/ED28/HR
680010068.042007500Philips 4K Master Color PAR-38

 

Flourescent tubes, 48"
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
44006073.3300012000Sylvania F48T12/D830/HODesigner
42506070.8410012000Sylvania F48T12/D41/HO Designer
42506070.8350012000Sylvania F48T12/D35/HO Designer
42506070.8410012000Philips F48T12/SPEC41/HO
42506070.8350012000Philips F48T12/SPEC35/HO
42506070.8300012000Philips F48T12/SPEC30/HO
37004092.5500024000Philips F40/AX50 Advantage X
37004092.5410024000Philips F40/AX41 Advantage X
37004092.5350024000Philips F40/AX35 Advantage X
37004092.5300024000Philips F40/AX35 Advantage X
36004090.0500024000Philips F40T12/ADV50/ALTO
36004090.0410024000Philips F40T12/ADV41/ALTO
36004090.0350024000Philips F40T12/ADV35/ALTO
36004090.0300024000Philips F40T12/ADV30/ALTO
35004087.5410020000GE Staybright
35004087.5350020000GE Staybright
35004087.5300020000GE Staybright
34006056.6650012000Philips F48T12/D/HODaylight
33004082.5300020000Philips F40T12HomeLightWarm
33004082.5410020000Sylvania F40/D841 Desi800
33004082.5350020000Sylvania F40/D835 Desi800
33004082.5300020000Sylvania F40/D830 Desi800
33004082.5410020000Philips F40/41U Ultralume
33004082.5350020000Philips F40/35U Ultralume
33004082.5300020000Philips F40/30U Ultralume
32804082.0500020000Philips F40/50U Ultralume
32004080.0410020000Philips F40T12HomeLightCool
32004080.0350020000Philips F40T12HomeLightWarm
30004075.0650020000Sylvania F40/D865 Design800
23254058.1650020000Philips F40DXDaylightDeluxe
22504056.3500020000GE F40/SUNSunshineFullSp
19004047.5305020000GE F40PL/AQ/WS Plant&Aquarium
18754046.9340020000Sylvania F40GRO/WS Gro-Lux
16004040.0na20000Philips Agro-Lite
8004020.0675020000GE F40PL Gro & Sho

 

Mercury Vapor bulbs
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
60500100060.5430024000SylvaniaH36GW-1000/DXBrWhDlx
2300040057.5350024000SylvaniaH33GL-400/N Warmtone
2200040055.0430024000SylvaniaH33GL-400/DX BrWhDlx
1300025052.0350024000SylvaniaH37KC-250/N Warmtone
1250025050.0430024000SylvaniaH37KC-250/DX BrWhDlx
890017550.9<350024000SylvaniaH39KC-175/N Warmtone
840017548.0<430024000SylvaniaH39KC-175/DX BrWhDlx
450010045.0<350024000SylvaniaH38JA-100/N Warmtone
410010041.0<430024000SylvaniaH38JA-100/DX BrWhDlx

 

Tungsten Halogen Quartz double end lamps
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
22000100022.0<32002000Sylvania 1000T3Q/CL
21000100021.0<32003000Philips 1000T3Q/P/CL cl pl
1100050022.0<32002000Sylvania 500T3Q/CL
1050050021.0<32003000Philips500T3Q/P/CL ClPlusline
1000035028.630752000GE Q350T3/CL/ULTRA
920040023.0<32002000Philips 400T3Q/CL Clear
600030020.0<32003000Philips300T3Q/P/CL ClPlusline

 

Standard Incandescent Bulbs 110V/230V
LumenWattlm/wattKelvinHoursManufacturer, Name
4004010.02000100040 Watt Std. Incandescent Bulb

 


Equivalences:

1 lm/m2(lumens per square meter)
= 1 lux (lx)
= 10-4 lm/cm2
= 10-4 phot (ph)
= 0.093 lm/ft2
= 0.093 foot-candles (fc)

1 meter = 3.3 feet
1 square meter = 10.8 square feet
1 foot = 0.3 meter
This information was barrowed and is for educational purposes only


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very helpful thanks bob

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I've been studing this method of lighting i'm going to give it a try and will let every body know how this works.
Grow Bigger and Better,Saving 30-50% on your energy cost!
Grow Bigger and Better,Saving 30-50% on your energy cost!

By Joe Pietri

The biggest innovator in the history of cannabis in my generation is Reinhard Delp. Not only did he invent and holder of the patent for ice water extraction, he has been building flower forcers since 1992. His new solar powered Sun-gate is the leader of the industry. He was the first to feminize seeds and sell them in Europe in the late 90’s. His process was done naturally, without the use of any chemicals.

No one is more copied but seldom matched than Mr. Delp, who to me is the top grower of our generation.

The first time he impressed me he showed me 2 plants, planted next to one another, 1 completely covered in powdery mildew, the other completely clean and beautiful.
He was developing mildew and mold resistant genetics.

In the late 90’s Reinhard brought back the gas lantern routine that you find in any college grade horticulture book, and applied it to cannabis. Cannabis needs only 13 hours to stay in growth state. The 18-6 lighting in growth pattern, actually stress your plants, that never get that much light in one-day outdoors. Cannabis is an outdoor plant. Growing indoors you should copy how it grows outdoors.

No Cannabis growing in Afghanistan gets 18 hours of light in growth pattern. Most strains today have some part Indica in their genetic pool. Even equatorial strains don’t get 18 hours of sun a day.

12-1 lighting is as follows: 12 hours lights on, 5.5 lights off, 1-hour lights on, 5.5 lights off, and repeat schedule. The 1 hour on in between off period fools the plants that stay in growth state!

Your immediate savings is 5 hours in energy costs daily, as well as your bulbs and equipment lasting longer. But how do the plants react to this lighting schedule?

You see immediate growth response from your plants, they are happy from the added rest time. By day 14 the plants tripled in size. The plants are bushy with twice as many bud sites without topping or bending, In fact, when you top and stretch your plants out, you get many more bud sites than you would have had under 18-6 using same procedure of topping and stretching plant, your growing bigger and better and faster.

So you're saving 5 hours daily in energy costs, as well as your accelerated growth pattern which also saves you time and energy and equipment use.

In the growth cycle, never use 12-12, start your flowering period at 11 hours on 13 hours off. When your are growing outdoors each day you get less and less sun light, you should copy the way the sun acts naturally in your indoor grow. So first 2 weeks of flower you go 11 on 13 off, the next 2 weeks you go down to 10.5 on 13.5 off, next 2 weeks 10 on 14 off, next two weeks 9.5 on 14.5 off and the last weeks of flower you should be at 9 hours on and 15 hours off. You’ll get bigger and better buds by copying the way the sun light works on cannabis outdoors.

Cannabis is an outdoor plant and you should copy the way it grows outdoors indoors. The only thing that 18-6, and then 12-12 do is make the energy companies rich as well as the people who sell lights and equipment, the more you use the more you spend. 12-1 is a more natural way to grow indoors and you well have the best results you have ever had and save as much as 50% in energy costs.

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i'm going to try this method soon will post a grow long when I do

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Thanks Bob. Great info. Please keep us posted as to the results.

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RX420 wrote:

Tucson Bob I have a Question for ya...I am useing 600watt HPS bulbs in fixtures that can have glass installed.. at this time I am not air cooling the fixtures with ducting so I have removed all the glass.. the question is can I install the glass without over heating or damageing the bulbs? or should I only install the glass if I am air cooling


 it doesn't make much differance but without the glass the heat excapes easier so just make sure your not to close to your plants with the glass more of the heat radiates up. in cooling with duting and fan drws the heat straight out and will increase bulb life a little but not much. in not using duct the glass will become a dust trap. hope this helps



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Thanks Bob lots of good info.  Bob do u think that the auto flowers can handle more ours of light?



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yes some people run autos on 16hrs

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Great stuff. Read this info twice and going to read it again and use it.

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i have run autos on 24,18 and even 12 hours of light. the one i did at 12 yeilded just as much as any auto i run on 18 or 24 hours.


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LIGHT SPECTRUM & CHLOROPHYLL

200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is extremely harmful to plants because it is highly toxic.

280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade.

315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to plant growth.

380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.

>>>400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)

>>>Photosynthesis peaks at 430nm, no red (575nm+) is needed.
>>>Chlorophyll a and b are created between 400nm(UV/blue) and 550nm(green/white).

520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.

610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)

>>>Chlorophyll best absorbs light from the 680nm to 700nm range.
720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by chlorophyll here. Flowering and germination is influenced. At the high end of the band is infrared, which is heat.



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Quick question on running autos. Currently I am in flower on my photo's... so i am thinking about purchasing a t-5 setup to run three auto seedlings under.. I plan on running both autos and photos at the same time so i don't go medless in the off time. In the long run i could use the t5 for veg and seedlings.. My question is if i buy a four bulb set-up would it be beneficial to run mixed spectrum for the autos say three 6500k and one 3000k.? Or maybe half and half.. i have been reading up on other forums but it's never clear on if anybody runs there t5's this way for autos.. all the more expensive hid. bulbs are marketed saying they put out more enhanced spectrum either blue or red depending on the bulb.. the most expensive seem to be the dual arc bulbs that have both... Any thoughts on running mixed spectrum for autos?

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mixed spectrum works great. i'd do 3 (6500k) 1 (2700-3000k)

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Cool thanks for the quick response yeah I figured it would. Just wanted to make sure before I purchased anything.. Thanks Just trying to get the most out of my HBD. I trust your knowledge.. the decreased light cycle also seem like something worth looking into, very interesting stuff. Mr. delp might be a new role model for me.. Please keep us posted on your results.. !

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Hello has anyone ever tried this method?

"12-1 lighting is as follows: 12 hours lights on, 5.5 lights off, 1-hour lights on, 5.5 lights off, and repeat schedule. The 1 hour on in between off period fools the plants that stay in growth state!

Your immediate savings is 5 hours in energy costs daily, as well as your bulbs and equipment lasting longer. But how do the plants react to this lighting schedule?

You see immediate growth response from your plants, they are happy from the added rest time. By day 14 the plants tripled in size. The plants are bushy with twice as many bud sites without topping or bending, In fact, when you top and stretch your plants out, you get many more bud sites than you would have had under 18-6 using same procedure of topping and stretching plant, your growing bigger and better and faster."

I've read elsewhere one guy tried all 3 vegetative methods (24-0, 18-6, 12-1) and reported that with the (24-0) method he got the fastest growth. Others would argue that (18-6) is better because when the lights are off it allows the plant to build up flowering hormones I believe. So it sounds like if you were keeping a mother then (24-0) would be the best method. I'm curious what types of results people have gotten by using (12-1 & 18-6) with plants they flowered.



-- Edited by azbluntman on Wednesday 31st of October 2012 01:03:52 PM

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really i don't think you can do 18-6 or 24-0 for flowering, you have to have at least 12-12 minimum for the plant to think that winter is coming, i'm growing my plants on 24-0 and it hasn't given me any problems whatsoever, it does speed up the growing process cuz it keeps the plant in full veg mode all the time until you are ready to flower it. I don't know if i would do it with a hps, i'm running t5s so those are penny's to use on 24-0, if you are using hps/mh go with an 18-6 or 20-4 give it just a little time to rest and you save a little money on your bill too

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I have heard of people doing the 12-1 method but IMO, whatever cost reduction you are seeking with it is negligible and you probably have the wrong hobby if you are trying to save those few dollars by doing that. Also, I remember reading about someone doing that staggered light cycle and they had 10+ different strains in veg and one of them started to flower.

With all of that said, you cannot go wrong with 18-6 in veg. I've done 24-0, I have seen other grows at 24-0 and I have not seen a considerable difference that justifies 24-0 in veg.

As for flowering, a few interesting notes.... plants will flower with a 13/11 cycle and there's a lot of anecdotal evidence to support that a 13/11 cycle produces bigger buds. Plants flower outdoors with 14.5/9.5.... then as the fall hits, it finishes up in a 13/11 cycle. 13/11 is something I will be looking to try for my next run.

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Might have to try the 13/11 !

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"really i don't think you can do 18-6 or 24-0 for flowering" 

 

My question was aimed at different vegging light cycles.   (24-0, 18-6, 12-1 [12-5.5-1-5.5])

 

I think it would be pretty cool to save some electricity if the outcomes are the same.   Think about it if the (12-1) cycle is only 13hrs a day.  You would be cutting your electricity consumption by just under half compared to the (24-0) light cycle.   The problem with this idea is there are not enough sources that vouge for the (12-1) method.  I'm thinking most likely because its not as effective ????   Has anyone found any different to support the (12-1) method ???

Thanks for your input.  Just trying to understand it all a little better.

smokeout 



-- Edited by azbluntman on Thursday 1st of November 2012 01:28:59 PM

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I do 18-6 veg and 12-12 flower but always interested in hearing and reading more about other methods

This is the Facebook link to the guy that promotes the 12-1 method https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/347890575247222/

muscleman54 13/11 sounds interesting where did you get that info?

 



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Here is a group that use the 12-1 lighting.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/347890575247222/



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